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Asia Japan Travel

What to See in Japan in 12 Days

While interning in Japan, I was lucky enough to have my family come visit me for 6 days! While it was initially exciting, the thought of seeing my family after 3 months, but quickly I realized the enormous task in front of me: showing them the best Japan can offer in less than a week. I had visited quite a few of Japan’s cities so far, and had recommendations from coworkers, so I was able to put together a pretty good list!

  1. Tokyo : 3 Days (obviously). Once we met in Osaka, we took the bullet train to Tokyo we headed to our Airbnb. There is so much to see in Tokyo, we took no time at all before we headed off to Asuka, the temples in Tokyo, followed by a walk around Akihabara, a huge shopping area known for its large collection of anime and manga stores.
Bullet Train (Shinkansen) from Osaka to Tokyo
Family on Bullet train
Walking to Asuka Surrounded by Souvenir Shops

The next morning we started the day at the Imperial Palace. Although you are not allowed inside the palace, it is free to walk around the gardens! Next stop: Harajuku! Shopping center of Tokyo! We battled the enormous crowds to walk through this unique street and stopped to get delicious crepes along the way.

Imperial Palace Gardens
Crepes at Harajuku
Entrance of Harajuku

After crepes for lunch in Harajuku, we made our way to Ueno park, a massive park in the heart of Tokyo. The last stop of the whirlwind day before heading home for dinner was Shibuya and Shibuya crossing. You may remember this place from a previous blog, it is famous for its gigantic crossing area because it is so busy!

Ueno Park
Shibuya Crossing

2. Hakone: 2 days. Just a couple hours outside of Tokyo by train is Hakone, famous for is onsens (hot springs) and picturesque views of Mount Fuji. Unfortunately, the couple days we were here it was cloudy and rainy which meant no views of Mount Fuji. Don’t get me wrong, we did try our hardest to see the views! We visited the edge of Lake Ashi and Fuji-Hakone-Izu National park, but it was cold and cloudy so the best we saw was Torii in the distance. The Airbnb we rented in Hakone though was spectacular with its own onsen inside! There my mother and I sat all night and drank Plum sake (like fruit juice but better). The trains in Hakone are very old fashioned but very cute and do their purpose to both be functional and an additional attractions of Hakone!

In the morning we forged through the wet weather and waited for the Hakone train back to the shinkansen station (Hakone is a bit out of the way from other cities and would be much more manageable by car, which many Japanese families do).

Lake Ashi
View from Hakone Airbnb
Hakone Local Train!
Me waiting for a train in Hakone

3. Kyoto: 4 days. Getting from Hakone to Kyoto was very easy by bullet train, and in just a few short hours we arrived at our Airbnb in Kyoto! This is one of my favorite cities; there are endless things to do. Our Airbnb was right next to the famous Fushimi Inari temple so we started off there! Depending on how much you want to climb, this temple can take hours, but most people only walk a little of the ways up before turning around. If you have time, I do recommend trying to walk to the top; besides some amazing views at the top, it also gets much quieter and it feels less touristy.

Fushimi Inari Temple

The following morning, on our way to the Kiyomizudera temple we passed through an enormous graveyard right next to the temple. Kiyomizudera temple is right at the edge of Higashiyama, a district of old streets in Kyoto lined with great trinket shops and food!

First look at Kiyomizudera temple
Kiyomizudera Temple
Higashiyama
Higashiyama
Mum and Gemma trying Yuba (Tofu and Cheese)

Continuing a long day of walking, we saw Ryozen kannon Buddha temple, Yasaka shrine, and the Sammon gate before proceeding to world heritage site Nijo Castle.

Nijo Castle

The next day we started off the morning with a walk down Philosopher’s path leading us to Heian Shrine and Honen temple. As a warning, the Philosopher’s path is a bit of a walk from the closest train station and you have to walk quite a bit on the path to get to the temples. There are buses but I have never been good at navigating buses.

Heian Shrine
Philosopher’s Path
Honen Temple
Honen Temple

4. Nara: 1/2 day. In the afternoon, we took a train over to Nara which is just an hour away to visit the deer park and big buddha before returning to Kyoto for the evening. All the temples you want to see, Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji, are inside the Nara deer park so it makes it very easy to see everything in one swoop.

Nara Deer Park
Todai-ji temple
Giant Buddha Inside Todai-ji temple

For our last day in Kyoto, we did one more trip up Fushimi Inari (my favorite temple) and then headed to Arashiyama district in Kyoto where there is the Arashiyama bamboo forest and monkey park! Pro tip: get to Arashiyama super early, like the crack of dawn, if you don’t want to deal with a huge amount of tourists and then you can snap cool photos! If you want to hear more about Arashiyama, please go see my blog post Bamboo Forest and Monkey Park. (I don’t want to make this blog too long.)

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
On the Train to Arashiyama
Arashiyama Monkey Park

5. Hiroshima: 2 days. From Kyoto, we make the trek south where we arrive in Hiroshima. Since we had such a short time in Hiroshima, we thought it best to sign up for the Hiroshima Tourist bus that dropped us off at every sight much more conveniently than train and because it was a tourist bus they translated everything to English! We went first to Miyajima island, highly recommended by all my Japanese coworkers, which has the Itsukushima temple as well as lots of deer.

Miyajima Island

After, we obviously had to head to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial museum and surrounding park which documents the cause and effects of the Hiroshima atomic bomb. I don’t want to delve into all the parts of Hiroshima here, so if you are interested in reading more about this city please see my Hiroshima blog post.

Remains of Government building in Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

6. Osaka: 2 days. Our last stop was Osaka because that’s where my internship was. We went to see Osaka castle and we were lucky because the cherry blossoms had just started blooming (only happens for a couple weeks every year) so it was a gorgeous walk. We also had Osaka’s Okinomiyaki.

Walls and Moat of Osaka Castle
Cherry Blossoms in Osaka Castle Park

The last night we went out for curry, and I’m sitting here right now writing as if they have already left, but their flight isn’t until tomorrow morning. But, I work tomorrow so I can’t see them off as I’d hoped. Despite the classic family arguments that are inevitable when travelling, I am feeling a loneliness creep back that I haven’t felt this strongly since the first few weeks of being here. Everything is great in Japan, but being with my family for the past week and then suddenly going back to my usual routine brought back some homesickness I thought I had left long behind. I guess it goes to show me that no matter how far or how long I am away from my family, that I’ll still miss them.

Last meal with family: curry
Categories
Asia Japan Travel

Rice Crackers, Buddhas, and Deer, Oh My!

In rural Wisconsin, you hunt and eat deer; in urban Minnesota, you scare deer; in Nara, you feed and pet deer.

My lab director, Ray-san, invited me to his hometown of Nara to show me around and have dinner at his house. Thinking it must be close to Osaka because Ray-san commutes to and from every day, I accepted without a second thought. The morning of, an hour and a half worth of trains later, I arrived at Nara station. I would find out later it would take another half an hour worth of trains from Nara station to Ray-san’s home; I have no idea how he manages the commute!

Nara was much smaller than I expected with far fewer tourists than other historic Japanese cities I have travelled to so far. My first impression of the city was that it was just a far away suburb of Osaka or Kyoto, containing one shopping street as the only noteworthy object in view. It was not until after lunch when we left downtown Nara that I saw why Nara is famous.

Fancy Nara Lunch

We started by seeing how mochi is made!

Pounding the Mochi
Getting the Mochi
Mochi

A short walk away, but distinctly separated from the downtown food and shopping area, lies a massive park, filled with deer. When locals were describing the place to me, I could not believe their description of deer roaming the streets and biting for food. And then, not even in the park yet, I saw maybe seven deer to the edge of the sidewalk! I am over here freaking out about being five feet away from deer, and Ray-san goes over casually and begins to pet the deer, and the deer don’t move! I hesitantly walk over to try for myself, and the next thing I know all seven deer stand up and begin walking over to Ray-san who, without my realizing, had gone to purchase rice crackers, called deer crackers, from a local venue. Ray-san hands me the deer crackers and the deer suddenly turn around to begin vying for my attention using a combination of eye stares, nudging me with their head or directly biting my clothes! I am told to break up the deer crackers and give them to the deers, which I assume would make them back away after being fed, but to my horror they only became more direct!

The deer were not harmful, but it definitely was scary so I started running away into the park only to find more deer in the park also trying to get deer crackers! It wasn’t until I had given out all my crackers that the deer moved on to their next target holding deer crackers. In every turn, I found more deer either napping in the sunlight or hungrily surrounding park visitors with food.

All the temples are inside the park, and yet each are at least ten minutes walk apart from one another, which should give you some perspective about how enormous this park full of deer is. These temples are in pristine condition and some of the oldest in Japan, dating as early as 700AD. Many have been rebuilt over the years, but they still have not lost their magnificence. After visiting Kofuku-Ji temple and the nearby museum with many national treasures preserved from various Nara temples, we crossed the ancient Todai-Ji Temple gate with two wooden statues watching the gate, supposedly which only took 69 days to create!

Kofuku-Ji temple

Still inside the park, we reach a larger than life temple complex containing and even larger temple inside: Todai-Ji Temple. This temple contained the largest buddha in Japan!

Toadi-ji temple
Biggest Buddha in Japan

After sightseeing, we stopped in a waffle cafe for a snack and proceed to Ray-san for a takoyaki feast (fried octopus balls) made by his wife.

Takoyaki

While Kyoto is known for its many temples, Nara has the most historic temples. The locals are fiercely proud of their city’s history, including being Japan’s first capital city, despite dwindling tourism due to difficult access from Kyoto or Osaka. It is a place often overlooked by tourists looking for the highlights of Japan, but I would argue it is a must see for tourists travelling Japan from its deer park to the giant buddha to historic statues. Nara is not famous for its cuisine, and perhaps not more than a day trip, but I feel like I would have missed something if I had left Japan without visiting Nara.

Nara Mascot

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