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Asia Japan Travel

Nankinmachi: Kobe Chinatown

About half a week before going to Kobe, I asked around what people in my laboratory and dormitory suggested. After giving me a “why are you going there” look, all people could suggest was Kobe beef and Nankinmachi, Kobe Chinatown. Taking these suggestions, and a thorough google search, I realized it might only be an afternoon trip.

Setting off at 3, an hour later I found myself in the bustling metropolis of Kobe. There were clothe shops everywhere, and I became consumed for over an hour in a street that seemed like a mall directly under the train track line. One thing I have been searching for a long time but had not discovered until Kobe are the highly talked about Japanese thrift stores.

They have so many unique finds, including bomber jackets, oversized sweaters, knock off Supreme clothing and I even found a Minnesota Vikings jacket! I was probably in these thrift stores far too long because when I reached the outside once again it was already dusk!

Quite near the train line, I found Nankinmachi decoratively lit up with Japanese lanterns. While quite beautiful, it only spanned a couple blocks with every vendor selling the same Chinese food and gifts. Interestingly, unlike all the places I have visited so far in Japan, the vendors would actually try to talk to you and lure you into their store (perhaps because of the increased competition from everyone selling the same things).

The food was delicious, and after sampling the best Nankinmachi had to offer, I wandered through street to find the “terminal park” as I had been told it was named. Side note, it is actually called the Port of Kobe Earthquake Memorial Park. On my walk through the streets, every open shop seemed to be a Kobe beef restaurant! Fortunately I have already tried Kobe beef, and I didn’t have enough money to afford buying it, so I was not tempted.

Eventually, I reached the park, and it was fantastically lit and all your could see were the skyscrapers and the ocean!

One hotel had even been designed to look like a cruise ship, and an actual cruise ship pulled up alongside!

It was spectacular, but eventually it became too cold and so I eventured back to the train to take me home. Kobe is a wonderful city, perhaps not Japanese in the traditional sense, but it was a great day trip and I highly recommend visiting when it is dark so you can take in the beautiful lights of Nankinmachi and the Kobe Earthquake Memorial Park.

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Asia Japan Travel

Japanese Take on Afternoon Tea

A coworker recommended Monter au Plus Patisserie for my next outing, and so when sightseeing had lulled I decided to treat myself to a fancy afternoon. My coworker warned me it would be expensive, and right she was with small cakes starting at $5. After weighing whether the experience was worth the price, I forged inside to order. The patisserie was small but packed.

Immediately upon entering, there is a stand with a piece of paper (which I found out only too late that it is to sign up to be in line). Along the wall of the entrance are people slumped in chairs, some sleeping, while waiting for their name to be called. In front of the chairs is a little section to buy small treats to bring back home or to work, and beyond the treats are tables of people eating their tiny desserts and sipping tea. Behind the tables there are floor to ceiling windows so you can peer in as bakers bake cakes. And on the right are what seems to be an endless cake selection.

Unsure how to proceed, I walk up to the counter to order and a confused Japanese waitress ushered me back to sign the sign in sheet. After realizing my mistake, I was only further embarrassed because I needed to put the Japanese characters of my name but could not remember them, and so in the heat of the moment scribbled down my name in English instead.

Thirty minutes in and still not being seated, I was questioning whether I should have come after all. At the forty minutes mark, the same waitress I had earlier confused came over to bring me to my seat (I assume she didn’t call my name because I had written it in English). Tea was another pricey $6, but because I had already waited so long I thought I might as well go for it and ordered some Earl Grey. It was the best decision I have ever made in my life. Before coming to Japan, I despised green tea, but that is all you can find here. There is Royal Milk tea but it is definitely not the same as a hot cup of black tea. So for months I have been getting used to, and potentially beginning to enjoy, green tea. But having some real black tea was absolutely worth the $6, and honestly I would have likely paid more. Soon after, the cakes arrived. While taste wise, these tiny desserts did not seem worth the $5 price tag, the presentation was clearly exquisite. While I may have been in Japan, it felt more like I was in a fancy café in England, being served a proper cup of tea and chocolate cake.

An otherwise lazy afternoon well spent!

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Asia Japan Travel

Kobe Beef

I’ve never been fond of beef. I never understood why someone would want to eat an almost raw cow, with jokes such as “I want it so raw that I will be able to hear it moo.” But when I was offered to go to a Kobe beef dinner as a welcome party for me arriving in Japan, I could hardly refuse. If you haven’t heard of Kobe beef, it is supposedly some of the best beef in the world. The cows, raised in Kobe, Japan, are fed a special diet of Japanese beer and are massaged to give the meat the perfect consistency. I was actually told a story by a Japanese man who insists that the American basketball player, Kobe Bryant, was so named because his father loved Kobe beef so much!

The restaurant we arrived at for Kobe beef was a cook it yourself and all you can eat style. There were over 15 of us at the welcome party and so we split up into multiple tables, each with their own fire to grill the beef. The setting looked nice, but nothing extraordinarily fancy and nothing to indicate the magnificence of the meal that I was about to take part in.

The first course of beef was brought out on a huge cutting board, and sliced right in front of us. From there, the beef was placed on the grill so the flames could lick up the side of the beef.

Within just a few minutes, a pair of tongs had hoisted the biggest pieces of Kobe beef from the grill onto my plate and I stared at it in amazement. While it was barely cooked and dripping pink juices (which I have always thought of as blood even though that may not be true), the smell made my mouth water and watching everyone else take a bite of their own Kobe beef with such ecstasy convinced me to go ahead and see what all the fuss was about.

Boy do I know what the fuss is about now.

Not only did it change me to liking beef, but it was hands down the best meat I had ever had. Yes, even better than bacon. I never wanted to stop eating it. As each plate with more Kobe beef was brought out, we all found ourselves fighting over who could take the last piece. I tried almost every body part of the cow that is edible, from the shoulder to the stomach to the kidney to the tongue. The only part I didn’t like was the stomach because it was so soft and squishy no matter how long you cooked it for.

Cow Tongue

I ate and I ate and I drank and I ate. An hour in I knew I was full, but I also knew it may be ages before I ever get the opportunity to eat Kobe beef again, and so I continued to eat. Two hours in I started to feel sick because I had eaten so much food, but still I kept eating. It was only at the three hour point where I truly began turning away the beef, and thankfully that was when dinner was already wrapping up.

The trip home was brutal. I could not walk more than a shuffle without feeling sick from eating too much and the next morning I was still full and so didn’t eat breakfast, but I wouldn’t have changed a thing looking back on it. It completed one of my bucket list goals to try Kobe beef in Japan, and it lived up to every expectation I had been told! A truly once in a lifetime experience.

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